Culture Costume and Dress

5-7th May 2021 Birmingham UK

Paper Sessions

*** Note: Recordings of Paper Sessions not yet available ***

Female empowerment

Daphna Bahat 
Sex and the City vs Girls: The power (and weakness) of NOTHINGNESS in Generation Y’s fashion trends 

Irina Parreira, Michele Santos and Maria João Pereira Neto 
A Reflection, Through Female Testimonies, on the Fashion and Empowerment of Women in the Western World and in Portugal in the 1970s and 1980s 

Belinda Naylor 
Ageing and Aesthetics: How older women are reclaiming power through fashion 

Lifestyle and identity Chair

Asuman Yilmaz Filiz and Nurgül Kilinc 
Investigation of the Concept of “exclusivity/prestige” on Clothing by Gender and Fashion Consumer Types 

Hannah Hughes 
Covid-19 and online living: a recipe for a slow fashion lifestyle? 

Sian Hindle 
Push and Pull: The role of unworn jewellery in negotiating changing identities and relationships 

Uniforms and their metaphors

Patricia Brown 
A Business Angle Regarding Women’s Workplace Fashion and Style “Uniforms” 

Rachel Getz Salomon 
Dressed for War – the metamorphosis of the military skirt 

Isadora F Oliveira, Fabiano E A Batista, Ítalo J D M Dantas and Glauber S Junior 
Workers and their Uniforms: A bibliographic review on the relationship of power and prestige in a company in Minos Gerais – Brazil 

Dress as performance 

Nicholas Arnold 
“If you want to get ahead, get a hat” – the hat as essential clothing 

Caitlin Quinn 
The Shapewear Struggle: Who is in control of the actor’s body? 

Louise Chapman 
The Red Cloak: “A sister dripped in blood” 

Cultural appropriation and its resistance

Ella S Defoe-Faissal
Contemporary Uses of Madras: Appropriation and gatekeeping in the fashion industry

Camay Abraham and Ameerah Khadaroo
Culturally Inspired Fashion: Perceptions of fashion designers and consumers 

Symbolic dress

Glauber Soares junior, Isadora F Oliveira, Fabiano E A Batista and Ítalo J M Dantas
The Symbologies of the Typical Costume of the Rainha das Rosas Competition in Barracena, Minas Gerais, Brazil

Éva Deák
Clothing in the Court of Catherine of Brandenburg, Elected Prince of Transylvania (1626-1630)

Shashiprabha Thilakarathne, Sumith Gopura, Ayesha Wickramasinghe and Alice Payne
The Curse of “Kuweni”: Metaphorical approach to analyse power and style of folklore

The Politics of resistance

Anne Boultwood
First Ladies, First Women, and the Presentation of Self

Joanna Jarvis
The Regency Crisis of 1788: Dress as a visual marker of allegiance

Bria Mason
The Racial Politics of Dress

Sex and gender in literature

Shields Way
Challenging Conventions: Characterisation through dress in Brandon Sanderson’s “The Stormlight Archive”

Jennifer Cameron
Crossing-dressing as Empowerment in Katherine Mansfield’s ‘Je Ne Parle Pas Francais’

Hollie Geary-Jones
The Nineteenth-Century Prostitute: How the sexual ‘other’ reclaimed power through deliberate dressing

The business of fashion 

Kevin Almond
A Fashion Buyer’s Journey: The career of Vanessa Denza MBE

Sophie Louise Johnson
Brand v Consumer: Who has the power in fashion crisis management?

Mor Schwartz
Irreproducible Resistance: Artisanal fashion design and the one-of-a-kind accessories of Cecily Ophelia

Political edge-lands

Mark Dennis
The Regalia of Freemasonry – Materialising a concept

Jennifer Potter
The Dress of the Far-right: How fashion choices of the far-right groups have reflected and encouraged radical beliefs, from the Italian futurists to the US capitol rioters of 2021

Cross-dressing and gender politics

Manita Menezes and Marcos Namba Beccari
Fashion, Gender and Resistance: the t-shirt’s discourse

Zeynep Ozdamar Ertekin, Bengu Sevil Oflac, Ela Burcu Ucel and Olca Surgevil Dalkilic
Dress and Professional Identity in the Pandemic-era: A visual exploration of women’s clothing in home-working life

Philippa Jackson
Power and Wellbeing Through Garment Choice: experimental garment design concepts for women who wear men’s clothing

Identity and technology

Rosemary Coffey
New Materiality and Phygital Dress: The performance of self through AR beauty filters

Zoe Jeffery, Kathryn Brownbridge, Emma Rich and Christof Lutteroth
Becoming Avatar: Co-creating girls’ PE kit on 3D gaming bodies

Marylaura Papalas
Technology in French Fashion Magazines, 1920-1940

Changing the national narrative

Uthra Rajgopal
Jayaben Desai: The sari-clad lion

Noli Moyssi and Varvara Stivarou
Textile Regulations as a Form of British Empowerment in Colonial Cyprus: A view from the municipal archive of Limassol

Valeria Aki
Fashion as a Tool of Nation Branding: A Columbian case study